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Wrapper does not burn consistent with filler

TonyG

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
70
Location
Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
I recently had a fairly nice cigar (the brand escapes me at the moment) and had some trouble getting the wrapper to burn consistent with the filler. In a nut shell, at the onset the filler burned and the wrapper did not. I could see where the burn was inside the wrapper as there was slight discoloration to suggest the heat of the burn was right underneath that spot. The entire cigar burned that way. I tried various methods to get the cigar back on track and had no luck.

My suspicion is that I did not quite properly light the cigar ensuring that the wrapper was lit well enough.

Any ideas why?
 
My experience with that is empty pockets inside the filler, for example:

DSC02874.jpg
 
To my limited knowledge this is typically called "tunneling". One of the causes for this could be a cigar that has dried out and then been re-introduced to humidity. This will result in the wrapper being more damp than the interior of the cigar which then results in the "tunneling" effect.
 
In my experiences this is either due to a thick monstrosity of a wrapper (one of the sun grown types, for example) resistant to the same temperature burn as the binder/filler is able to burn at - or - the layers of tobacco are not at uniform humidity and need more time to stabilize together in a consistent relative humidity environment. The latter case is the same end result as the former; the tobaccos are going to burn at different combustion temperatures.
 
To my limited knowledge this is typically called "tunneling". One of the causes for this could be a cigar that has dried out and then been re-introduced to humidity. This will result in the wrapper being more damp than the interior of the cigar which then results in the "tunneling" effect.

I think I'd go with this answer. I had the same problem and this happened to be the culprit.

Simply rest your cigars in your humidor long enough for the entire stick to stabilize. Let's say, at least a week. Especially when you receive cigars in the mail or purchase them from far away, the sticks will definitely dry out a little in transit.

:thumbs:

Also, if you haven't already, invest in Heartfelt beads or a stable humidification device of some sort. For me, proper storage has been the key to a good light.

My suspicion is that I did not quite properly light the cigar ensuring that the wrapper was lit well enough.

In my personal experience, as long as a cigar is properly stored at a proper humidity, no matter how I light it (as long as it's somewhat sane), the burn usually balances itself out.
 
There is a four answer no one talked about.

Quit smoking cheap cigars.


Almost every xXx that I smoke has this issue, as well as a few other of the AF with the thick sungrown wrapper.
What would be your advise for that?


:sign:
T
 
A lot of the aforementioned examples are all contributors.

I have found that keeping them at 65% RH will help to a degree. A humidipack in a airtight food container WILL NOT get you down to
for a very long time. A wooden humidor with beads is the best bet, and a small circulating fan. It takes at least 3 weeks min for the mechanical tensions in the cigar to stabilize. after that, you are dealing with differing moisture contents in the construction. The wrapper will allow moisture
through into the interior at 65. Higher than 65, the moisture gets in throught the foot, hence the sometimes swollen feet you may have seen from time to time.

If it is strictly a construction issue, you can sometimes salvage the smoke by sipping the cigar. Two very light puffs preceding a more aggrsive, but still light puff. This gives the outer components time to "catch up" with the quicker burning, and oxygen rich (caused by the tunnel) center
portion of the cigar. You can also very lightly pinch the cigar right before the cherry, to help close the tunnel. Just make sure you are close to the cherry, but not close enough to burn you fingers.

If you buy singles, sight seen, always look at the foot to see if the center of the cigar looks less evenly bunched. Not a sure fire prevention,
but contributory to success more often than not.
 
The cigar in question was a Gran Habano, Corona #5, not an expensive cigar, but not a cheap one either IMHO. The cigar was purchased in Florida along with some other cigars and placed into a travel humidor and driven back here. Once home in the Great White North it was placed into my humidor which is kept at a consistent 72 degrees humidity. I didn't smoke it until 8 weeks later.
Since posting I learned that this high humidity is flirting with mold potential so I will be adjusting the humidity to below 70.


The wrapper appeared to be rich in oil's as well. Admittedly I am still learning about the finer aspects of cigars so no doubt there could well have been a readily identifiable issue that I missed.

All this information is great though. Helps me to learn.

BTW, it was my brother-in-law who purchased this cigar and a number of others for me so I was trusting his judgment. There were two cigars with no bands so I don't know what I have here. One of them really has my attention. It appears to be a 60 ring gauge, dark wrapper, torpedo with a cut foot. Interestingly, the foot is void of wrapper for the last 1/4 inch and it appears that this is meant to be as the wrapper is neatly trimmed. At first glance I thought it was a band, but a closer inspection showed that it was indeed filler etc. Any ideas on what I might have here? I intend to save it for a nice summer evening smoke on the deck after the kids are in bed. Maybe with a nice Scotch.
 
Common causes:

Improper blending each leave burns at a different rate!

Cigars were recently rolled and not allowed to rest before shipping the oils in the cigar are imbalanced!

Tunneling tobacco wasn't deveined and the thicker parts bunch the draw.

Improper fermentation, tobacco in the bulks on the outside sometimes doesn't sweat out enough amonia. This will cause it channel from side to side.
 
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