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Guns

Breedy said:
My two cents.

A mil-spec lower is a mil-spec lower.... Mostly. I prefer Aero as it seems to be the right level of quality versus cost. I have Andersons, S&W and Ruger lowers as well, all of them go bang. The Ruger is super tight on the upper, but otherwise there is little difference between them.

Where I have seen some variation is in the LPK. Cheap, discounted ones just don't seem to fit the same. I've had friends who thought their lower was out of spec because a five cent detent was crappy.
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I hear what you're saying on the milspec while I know it should work that way. My first and second Anderson lower both had a buffer retainer hole that was too far back causing the buffer to be eaten up. I'm surprised the little nipple never broke off the pin. I have a third Anderson lower but I'm afraid to use it even though it looks ok compared to the others. That's why I'm looking for a new one.
 
jbfurdog said:
I hear what you're saying on the milspec while I know it should work that way. My first and second Anderson lower both had a buffer retainer hole that was too far back causing the buffer to be eaten up. I'm surprised the little nipple never broke off the pin. I have a third Anderson lower but I'm afraid to use it even though it looks ok compared to the others. That's why I'm looking for a new one.
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I've always kind of avoided Anderson...but if shit hits the fan, you can run without the buffer retainer pin.
 
Anyone ever forgotten the combo to your safe? Any solutions other than calling a locksmith?
 
What make and model? Electronic lock or manual?

I would suggest calling the manufacturer unless you reset it or searching YouTube. Unfortunately many "safes" aren't as secure as they would like you to believe.
 
Breedy said:
What make and model? Electronic lock or manual?

I would suggest calling the manufacturer unless you reset it or searching YouTube. Unfortunately many "safes" aren't as secure as they would like you to believe.
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Manual, American Security. No clue what the model is, bought it at an estate sale.
 
smellysell said:
Manual, American Security. No clue what the model is, bought it at an estate sale.
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AmSec usually means it is not a residential security container. I'm leaning towards a locksmith since this is likely a legitimate safe.

The stuff most places sell as gun safes, aren't actually safes. Some of the residential security container you coulf get into by laying them down on their side until the weight of the bolts break the internal mechanisms...takes a few days according to a coworker that had to do this.

The other option on the RSC is to cut into the sides or backs. The door might be 10g steel, but the backs and sides are usually pretty thin.
 
Before you destroy the safe with a grinder cutting into the sides a locksmith will be able to drill it out and put a new lock in it. Not cheap but cheaper than a new safe. AmSec is good stuff you won't be able to replace cheaply at all.

While this won't help you I was once the Nuclear Security Officer and part of my kit was a drill chart for every style of safe that held Nuclear Cookies, manuals etc etc in case both people forgot the combos. I guess they wanted us to lead off round 2 if there ever was one because it would take at least 30 minutes to drill the safe. And in a prime example of military intelligence - I only got the chart not the drill or bits to actually do it. That was 40 years ago. one can only hope it has improved.
 
smellysell said:
Manual, American Security. No clue what the model is, bought it at an estate sale.
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Before you do all of that, take a look to see if you can find a serial number on it. Usually a sticker or metal tab. On top possibly, in a corner, or the back side. With that, you MAY be able to call the company and ask if they'll give you the combo. That's the good thing about the manual dial locks. Digital locks, once you change em, you're screwed if you forget. Good luck.

Floyd T
 
Looks like possibly the front of the door, lower right side(according to a message board) may have a data plate. it should have the serial number and the model number. Hopefully that helps.

Floyd T
 
Last thing I'll say, I swear! If it's ever been dropped(jarred) it's possible it'll be a bit out of sync. At that point, get a bottle of good liquor, an Opus A, and start a list of numbers tried.(do this only if the company has given you the combo and it DOESN'T work). It could be a number or two off either before or after one or more of the numbers. Yea, this would really suck! We had a customer have this happen and the company gave him an 8.5" x 11" sheet of paper with possible combos. Pretty funny (to e) since I wasn't;tt he one having to deal with it.

Again, good luck to ya!

Floyd T
 
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