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Calling The Suits

Smoking Mex said:
I have always prefered the bottom hems to be unfinished and have had the hem altered by a tailor. My question is simlar to I am afraid: the dreaded cello on/cello off discussion. The reason I bring it up is that in recent conversation with the "modern man" the trend is to have the slacks finished with no cuff. I personally have always liked the cuff, but I don't want to be laughed at. I dont want to feel like the guy who wears the sportcoat with the leather patches if you know what I mean?
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I'm in a shirt and tie Monday through Thursday, with the occasional sportcoat or suit thrown in as needed or desired. On "casual" Friday, it's usually an open collar button-down over chinos. I'm not really a polo kind of guy even though I do own a handful of golf shirts. I'm currently hooked on Nordstrom brand shirts.

I have sportcoats with elbow patches and truth be told, I prefer them...a lot. They have a classic look that I think will remain with us for a long, long time. Oh sure, the fashionistas may poo-poo them with disdain...but only until they're in again, when they'll embrace them like a long lost dog. Besides good looks, they still have the practicality of their origins.

Pleats are another thing the fasionistas don't seem to like much these days. I say wear what works for you. There are pleated pants out there that make me look bigger through the midsection than I already am. Others actually improve my profile. Same with flat fronts. It's all in the cut that fits you.

I like cuffed hems, too. I disagree that they look "fussy" but they do generally have a dressier look...but not always. I have cuffed chinos that most definitely have a relaxed image. My opinion is: cuffs with suits, always; cuffs with sportcoats, usually but not necessarily; cuffs any other time, suit yourself and occasion.

Ties...I love 'em. I may even be addicted. I still have a handful of JCP, Macy's, and other ties but my collection is now mostly J.W. Nordstrom, XMI, Ike Behar, and Robert Talbott...and it's growing.
 
Marco-Polo said:
Cuffed hems on pants work best if you're also wearing a suit jacket; otherwise they just look fussy. Depends on your personal build, as well; if you're tall and bulky, cuffed hems work well, but if you're short or very slim, they'll break up the line.

Now, if you mean FRENCH cuffs ... I really can't help you there. They only look good if you're Gordon Gekko or a pretty muscular/bulky guy. Fortunately, I used to play college football, because I like cufflinks.

Paradoxically, a dress shirt is going to cost you less than a decent polo, just because you'll get many more uses out of it. (Polos are infamous for color fade). If you're in a khakis-and-polo environment, a simple shirt is going to look much more professional. The disadvantage is that it needs ironing and starch. C'est la vie. Don't forget to always show up at work with polished shoes, too.

And finally, say NO to short sleeves in a suit. You are not a 1950's engineer at NASA. So long as you're not breaking out a slide rule on a regular basis, no short sleeves.
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or if you want to remind people of Homer Simpson or Dilbert.
 
I'm more of an old-school, formal type of guy so I like pleats and cuffs. You can't go wrong with either one in a business setting imo.
 
Adrian,

Your first thought was the best. Go to a Men's Shop with tailoring on the premises and try a bunch of different styles. I would mix in a little of both. Cuffs now seem to be relegated to a more conservative work place and style...Banking, conservative Wall Street, Trial Lawyer, etc paired with a single breasted, 2 button jacket. Fashion has a tenancy to change mildly these days, so be comforted by that thought, whatever way you go, you should be safe 'fashion wise'. One thing I always preached was if you have a short inseam (short person) and are a little on the stocky side....stay away from cuffs, they visually make your legs look shorter by creating two horizontal lines defining your leg length (cuff & Waist line). Pleats pushed under a belly is not preferable as well, flat front works better with that stocky body shape.

As for material blend, try and stay away from 100% natural fibers, they wrinkle more easily...try to find blends...50/50, cotton/polyester or 50/50, poly/wool. Remember, worsted wool breathes with your body temp and holds up better...but costs more. Poly/cottons are good, inexpensive and hold up reasonably well but will wear in certain spots more easily.

The tailoring is crucial here...a properly tailored pair of trousers feel better and wrinkle less. Same goes for a suit jacket or sport coat...correct sizing of the basic cut (Regular, Short, or Long), tailored sleeve length, and the correct amount of room for a good look while the jacket is buttoned are all issues that a good Men's Clothing Salesman will guide you towards in the beginning of your journey. Once you get a little more familiar, you can take your show on the road if you choose...but, finding a good Salesman to help you, developing that good relationship together...makes you life way easier in the long run. When you need something, you go in, he knows what brands fit you better than others, marks them up for tailoring more quickly than breaking in a new person....THEN YOU PAY AND GO BACK A FEW DAYS LATER TO PICK UP YOUR ITEMS AND THEY FIT CORRECTLY!

Try on a few things and trust your eye, you'll know what is right for you with a little friendly advice from a seasoned professional.

Hope this helps.
 
B² always looks good and while hemming and cuffing by a tailor always is better they have some pretty good rack merchandise. Pleats are a personal decision and that is up to your discretion. They have some nice shirts as well, but wait for the sale prices.
Their sizes are consistent now so if you know what it is, you can wait for the sale catalogs and get the stuff for a better price and you don’t have to live nearby one of the stores.
Easy and no risk.
My $.02
 
A lot has to do with body type. If I am not wearing a suit, I opt for plain front pants with no cuff and a fitted button up shirt. When I go suit for some reason plain front looks less attractive and one pleat appears better. If I have a pleat I have a cuff. Wear whatever makes you most confident. While comfort is important to me, I'd rather look as sharp as possible. Puts me in the right frame of mind to feel good and be productive.
 
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