
Purchased in AVB's 5 bottle buy recently. Bunnahabhain is an Islay distillery, but its standard output lacks the heavy peat influence of the southern Islay whiskies such as Laphroaig, Ardbeg and Lagavulin. In fact, the distillery's 12 year old is a very fresh, sea-influenced whisky that I enjoy quite a bit, with only a light hint of peat among the interplay of sweet, nutty malt and Atlantic sea. See AVB's review of the standard 12 y.o. here.
This heavily peated Signatory, from a single refill cask, is bottled at 46% and not chill filtered, leaving all the oily crud in the whisky to enhance the flavor, and it is not the sea-fresh whisky I'm used to. It's a peat bomb, like burying your head in a swampy peat bog! Think Laphroaig 10 y.o. with the dial turned to 11. There is a huge blast of peat, with a very heavy, earthy base aroma. Then come hints of brine. Not as "medicinal" as southern Islay whisky, the peat seems more earthy, rather than kelpy. I really want to say it smells and tastes like fresh dirt, but it's actually much more pleasant than that sounds. Maybe the rich, moist essence of potting soil? After a few sips, and with some time for the whisky to settle, some sweetness shows itself, with a fair bit of lighter fruitiness. Not as malty as standard Bunny, which can have a toasty, nutty and honeyed character, this is lighter, almost the flavor of the light syrup from canned pears (but not as sweet). The finish is long, with the fruit fading quickly, leaving the delicious peat for what seems like forever. I could smell it on my own breath long after taking a drink, and it smelled delicious (but then, I am a certified peat phreak).
If you are a fan of peaty whisky, and especially of young Laphroaig, this is a great drink to have for a little change of pace. It concentrates even more on just plain ol' peat, and I loved it!
ETA: link to AVB's review of the standard 12 y.o.