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How To: Lining My Cabinet with Cedar.

Nickc

Nickc

New Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2010
Messages
312
Hey All,

I am looking to line my cabinet with cedar to help maintain humidity better. The seals on my glass doors are pretty good but I want it cedar lined. Here is a picture of what I have, I already have a source of where I will get the cedar, but I need to know how I should do this. I am going to remove the shelves and remake them out of cedar, but how much do I have to worry about expansion and contraction when lining it and building the shelves? I assume liquid nails would be the best way to bond the cedar to the wood? Can i cut the sheets of cedar to the exact size of the cabinet sides or should I leave a little gap at the top and bottom?

Please any of you humidor masters out there help....


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"help maintain humidity better"

Does it not already hold humidity well? Your issue shouldn't be making the humidor act more like a sponge but sealing the humidor.
 
Hey Nick, here's a link to an explanation of wood movement. Some good info.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator.htm
 
w00ts!te said:
"help maintain humidity better"

Does it not already hold humidity well? Your issue shouldn't be making the humidor act more like a sponge but sealing the humidor.
Click to expand...
I think what he's going for is the ability of spanish cedar to absorb and hold/release humidity. When you open a large cabinet like that, I imagine it takes quite sometime for the RH to recover. The cedar acts as a buffer to help decrease that recovery period, And he said it seals pretty well, which seems very good for a sliding glass humi... JMO.


*Good lookin cabinet!!! :thumbs:
 
Curious where do you plan on getting the spanish cedar ive been looking around everywhere and cannot find it for cheap or in good sizes. They all seems to be in the 3-6" width range.
 
stewshi said:
Curious where do you plan on getting the spanish cedar ive been looking around everywhere and cannot find it for cheap or in good sizes. They all seems to be in the 3-6" width range.
Click to expand...

Here They have it in 8" widths. Will need to put two pieces side by side to line my cabinet, but I don't care.It will just place the seam in the back so you can't notice it.
 
I'd be worried about the volatiles from the Liquid Nails stinking up my cigars. You could use the top and bottom pieces to hold the sides. Maybe then you would only have to fasten the top piece. Then again you could rabbet the sides to the top, push the top up using the sides and then drop in the bottom piece. No fastening necessary, maybe. That is unless some of the joinery experts here tell me I'm full of it. :laugh:
 
Humidor Minister any thoughts on bonding the cedar to the inside walls?
 
Nickc said:
Humidor Minister any thoughts on bonding the cedar to the inside walls?
Click to expand...


I actually do joinery that interlocks pieces together. It allows the wood to move freely. Wood movement is a powerful thing. If you try to stop it, it can bend, warp or break just about anything. You can put a bead of wood glue parallel with the grain up the middle of a board. This will hold it but still allow movement away from the glue line in both directions. If you try to glue the whole piece to a substrate, it will cause a bend towards the piece you glued it to as the humidity rises. I would make it as a separate unit that slides into the cabinet.

As far as adhesives go, I'd use only silicone in a well ventilated area and wait for it to completely cure for a few days. Or I'd use titebond II. It's odorless as well when dry. I use to build custom homes and we used Liquid nails for sheeting floors. The houses would smell like it for a very long time.
 
As much as I like the people from the company, I hate the glue. It expands and it's very messy. It still won't stop wood movement either. The wood will just warp. If you get it on your hands it's there for days. :0 You might ask Bob from Aristocrat to chime in on this subject too.
 
Does your local health club have a sauna? Don't forget the saw and a large gym bag :) If that doesn't work try a place that builds in home saunas for wood. They may even have some scraps they can throw you.
 
Here in Tucson, the board foot price is around $7.59. If you buy 100 board feet, it's around $5.79. It can add up fast. The curved cabinet I'm building right now has sucked down almost 100 bf. I'd swear if I stacked it up inside it, it would be filled wall to wall. It's a vortex for SC. It is pretty cool though. Check with your local Woodworkers.
 
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