Can this Wine cooler work as a humi

[modo22]

I have be posting for almost 2 months now and have mentioned several times that I am already out of more room...So I have began to research end table and cabinet humi's and looking at 500-900 bucks....well I came to the conclusion the other day that I may need to just open my eyes. I stare at my 30 bottle dual zone wine cooler daily and have been reading the recent posts (now that its heating up) on all the wineidors. so I ask you, will this one work in your opinion?
Here is some info and pics... Wine Cooler

So, the only issue I can see is that the lower half (the large half of the two) can only be set between 41 and 50 degrees. Is that a huge issue? And question number 2) for those of you with wineidors, do you still (can you) store wine here?

Hoping

 

[alkaline]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

 

[smokintexas]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Where did you come up with the fact that it's not thermoelectric? Not calling you out, just interested to see where you came up with this conclusion.

If it is thermoelectric the biggest concern I would have is the temp in the lower zone which you noted. There are ways to override the temperature control by installing a separate thermostat and that has been discussed before. I am not 100% positive if that would work on this particular model, but don't see why it wouldn't.

 

[modo22]

Thats why I come to you guys to get opinions and experience from those that have tried. Anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions (other than a coolidor :sign

 

[alkaline]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Where did you come up with the fact that it's not thermoelectric? Not calling you out, just interested to see where you came up with this conclusion.

If it is thermoelectric the biggest concern I would have is the temp in the lower zone which you noted. There are ways to override the temperature control by installing a separate thermostat and that has been discussed before. I am not 100% positive if that would work on this particular model, but don't see why it wouldn't.

From the specs...

Warranty: 18 months parts and labor. Five years parts on compressor. In Home Service

 

[smokintexas]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Where did you come up with the fact that it's not thermoelectric? Not calling you out, just interested to see where you came up with this conclusion.

If it is thermoelectric the biggest concern I would have is the temp in the lower zone which you noted. There are ways to override the temperature control by installing a separate thermostat and that has been discussed before. I am not 100% positive if that would work on this particular model, but don't see why it wouldn't.

From the specs...

Warranty: 18 months parts and labor. Five years parts on compressor. In Home Service

I wonder if that is just part of their legal lingo? I honestly couldn't find anything that would definitely tell me whether or not it was a condensor or thermoelectric but from looking at the fans on the interior of the the unit is what lead me to believe it was thermoelectric. Typically the times I have seen fans on the interior of wine coolers it has been thermoelectric and the fans have served as an agent to evenly distribute the cool temperature created by the node.

 

[in2xshp]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Where did you come up with the fact that it's not thermoelectric? Not calling you out, just interested to see where you came up with this conclusion.

If it is thermoelectric the biggest concern I would have is the temp in the lower zone which you noted. There are ways to override the temperature control by installing a separate thermostat and that has been discussed before. I am not 100% positive if that would work on this particular model, but don't see why it wouldn't.

I would like to know how you feel that if it's not a thermoelectric, it's no good? ??? I have a compressor style 42 bottle Haier and it works great. It has a digital thermostat that goes to 65 degrees and 65%rh beads. I don't get massive drops in Rh or in temp.


Sam

 

[chadth]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Can someone please explain, in detail, why compressors are bad vs thermoeletric? I would appreciate seeing references to support it.

Thanks,
-Chad

 

[in2xshp]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Can someone please explain, in detail, why compressors are bad vs thermoeletric? I would appreciate seeing references to support it.

Thanks,
-Chad

Chad,

As far as I can see nothing, I think that more and more people should be reading This (clicky me).
As I have stated in many posts along with mine on my own wine-o-dor I am having no problems with my comp style humi.


Sam

 

[klipsch]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Where did you come up with the fact that it's not thermoelectric? Not calling you out, just interested to see where you came up with this conclusion.

If it is thermoelectric the biggest concern I would have is the temp in the lower zone which you noted. There are ways to override the temperature control by installing a separate thermostat and that has been discussed before. I am not 100% positive if that would work on this particular model, but don't see why it wouldn't.

I would like to know how you feel that if it's not a thermoelectric, it's no good? ??? I have a compressor style 42 bottle Haier and it works great. It has a digital thermostat that goes to 65 degrees and 65%rh beads. I don't get massive drops in Rh or in temp.


Sam

Facts speak louder than specs. If it works...keep it. I've seen reply's in here where it was stated that if the cooler was freon based that it was no good. So I can see why a first response would be that it's no good. I believe that it was more regarding cigars around freon than anything else.

 

[in2xshp]

After reading the instruction manual, I wouldn't use this as a humi only because of the fact that the lower section cannot be adjusted above 50*. If you wanted to and just the top section is enough room for you, for now, you can try using just the top for cigar storage. However I think you should look into setting this up properly before you go ahead with doing this i.e. don't use a bowl of standing water for humidity. Beads have worked best for me and many, many others here and can be bought pretty cheap. Any more questions I would suggest reading the above linky I provided to wine fridge set-up.

Sam

 

[modo22]

Thanks for the link, I have read that. But alot of the wine coolers I have seen on here that are dual zones can at least go as high as 65 degrees. So my main question was about the large lower section for white wine (but I mostly fill this with beer )that goes only up to 50. I do not think the upper is enough room for me. Is it maybe possibly to disable the lower sections cooling unit and or the temp gage?

 

[bfreebern]

Why not use it, keep the top set at the temperature you want and see how the bottom does not set on anything?

Where will you be keeping it and what is the temperature where it will be?

 

[alkaline]

It's not thermoelectric....no good.

Where did you come up with the fact that it's not thermoelectric? Not calling you out, just interested to see where you came up with this conclusion.

If it is thermoelectric the biggest concern I would have is the temp in the lower zone which you noted. There are ways to override the temperature control by installing a separate thermostat and that has been discussed before. I am not 100% positive if that would work on this particular model, but don't see why it wouldn't.

I would like to know how you feel that if it's not a thermoelectric, it's no good? ??? I have a compressor style 42 bottle Haier and it works great. It has a digital thermostat that goes to 65 degrees and 65%rh beads. I don't get massive drops in Rh or in temp.


Sam

I guess I misspoke. Possibly if you had a lot of boxes that created a large inertia of humidity it would work...I wouldn't want to keep singles out in the open though since a compressor does push in very cold and very dry air. I know some people also mention using timers and extra thermostats (or do they alter their thermostat...i don't rememeber)...anyway that doesn't sound like an ideal solution. But since he already has it...may as well give it a shot...at least the warmer top section.

 

[chadth]

...I wouldn't want to keep singles out in the open though since a compressor does push in very cold and very dry air...

I am growing a little frustrated with the parroting and general spreading of misinformation so I apologize if this comes off a little harsh. How does a compressor dry air? Where does this cold air get pushed from? Have you seen fridges with a blower on them that takes external air, cools it, then circulates it within the fridge? You might be mixing up how a fridge works with how air conditioners work. All the fridges I have ever seen use a heat transfer system in a closed environment. Some use a peltier device and some use a compressed gas with channels to remove heat from the interior walls which in turn removes heat from the air. No (modern) fridge I have ever seen or read about has ever removed, replaced, or conditioned air. Please provide links, pictures, drawings, or anything that could describe what you are actually talking about.

 

[alkaline]

...I wouldn't want to keep singles out in the open though since a compressor does push in very cold and very dry air...

I am growing a little frustrated with the parroting and general spreading of misinformation so I apologize if this comes off a little harsh. How does a compressor dry air? Where does this cold air get pushed from? Have you seen fridges with a blower on them that takes external air, cools it, then circulates it within the fridge? You might be mixing up how a fridge works with how air conditioners work. All the fridges I have ever seen use a heat transfer system in a closed environment. Some use a peltier device and some use a compressed gas with channels to remove heat from the interior walls which in turn removes heat from the air. No (modern) fridge I have ever seen or read about has ever removed, replaced, or conditioned air. Please provide links, pictures, drawings, or anything that could describe what you are actually talking about.

you are correct

Edit: I'm trying to wrap my head around this...as temperature decreases the amount of water that air can transport decreases...so the air being cooled actually increases it's RH compared to the ambient air? And if you cool the air too much it will push the RH to 100% and condense water out?

 

[chadth]

Edit: I'm trying to wrap my head around this...as temperature decreases the amount of water that air can transport decreases...so the air being cooled actually increases it's RH compared to the ambient air? And if you cool the air too much it will push the RH to 100% and condense water out?

Correct. According to this chart, if you cool 50 degree celsius saturated air (100% RH) to 40 degrees celsius, you will have ~45 (95g - 50g) grams of condensation and the air will still be 100% RH. When talking about fridges though, its important to understand that the air closest to the cooling system will be colder then the air furthest away. This is where your condensation is most likely to form and is usually the location of drainage systems. Fans will help minimize some of this but won't fully mitigate it. I am unsure how digital hygrometers work but suspect they don't accurately reflect the RH of a system in flux, especially one under rapid cooling.

 

[alkaline]

Edit: I'm trying to wrap my head around this...as temperature decreases the amount of water that air can transport decreases...so the air being cooled actually increases it's RH compared to the ambient air? And if you cool the air too much it will push the RH to 100% and condense water out?

Correct. According to this chart, if you cool 50 degree celsius saturated air (100% RH) to 40 degrees celsius, you will have ~45 (95g - 50g) grams of condensation and the air will still be 100% RH. When talking about fridges though, its important to understand that the air closest to the cooling system will be colder then the air furthest away. This is where your condensation is most likely to form and is usually the location of drainage systems. Fans will help minimize some of this but won't fully mitigate it. I am unsure how digital hygrometers work but suspect they don't accurately reflect the RH of a system in flux, especially one under rapid cooling.

So a wine cooler set at ~65F with a compressor will be ok because it doesn't push the RH over 100% for the cooled air thus maintaining the overall humidity with no loss or gain of water...but a normal fridge at ~35F is no good because it condenses water out of air which is normally at 70RH / 70F.

How often do you need to add water to your beads in your compressor driven wine cooler?

 

[klipsch]

I may be missing something...but "if" there's any kind of fan involved to pump in the cooled air (thermoelectric), the exiting air has to go someplace. Would I be wrong to expect the warmer escaping air to take some humidity with it? Causing the large swing in RH%?

 

[alkaline]

I believe fans just basically make the air move through a compartment with the cold bits of the cooling system.