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building a humi, need advice from experienced guys

collegestu

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
138
First off I have gone thought the other threads and I am asking what everyone here thinks of what I should do with my specific build, not generalities. I am trying to build a coffee table humi that has similar characteristics of this one.

I know that I should use spanish cedar on the inside, but what else. Is there any specifications I should use that would help me. Can I use MDF for the frame and use a veneer on the outside and vaneer the inside with spanish.

Any type of help will be greatly appreciated.

BTW, does anyone have recommendations for a cool way to humidify the unit like this.
 
Do a search Robbie did the exact same thing except for the cooling function!
 
I saw that, but it does not have any information. The links for the pictures are not working and its a dead thread. If anyone else can give input would be great.
 
PM humidor minister.

I talked to him about a project that I am going to do, and he suggested putting a foil or plastic liner on the inside of the box to keep the moisture out of the MDF.

I wouldn't just veneer the inside with spanish cedar. It helps regulate humidity, so I would actually get some boards, maybe 1/4" thick to line the inside and make sure you leave room for them to expand.
 
I misspoke, I thought veneers came in different widths, no just paper thin. I went to a specialty wood store and found that I would most likely go for 1/4. It seems like it would be the best thing to do since it is only a few buck more over the 1/8. now, if I could get it cheaper than $24 5x48 1/4

Another reality hit me. I wanted to use an exotic wood for the exterior, all sides. Apparently, if I want to get 4x8 plywood of purple heart, wenge, bubinga, or african mahogany it will run 500.

I had my heart set on zebra but it looks like it would cost a small fortune to build a 51x32x12 box.

What do any of you think?
 
Yeah, you'll probably be looking at a pretty penny to put a wood like that on the exterior. Granted, I think something that size might be a bit overpowering with zebrawood.

Humidor Minister will help you out if you have any questions.
 
I misspoke, I thought veneers came in different widths, no just paper thin. I went to a specialty wood store and found that I would most likely go for 1/4. It seems like it would be the best thing to do since it is only a few buck more over the 1/8. now, if I could get it cheaper than $24 5x48 1/4

Another reality hit me. I wanted to use an exotic wood for the exterior, all sides. Apparently, if I want to get 4x8 plywood of purple heart, wenge, bubinga, or african mahogany it will run 500.

I had my heart set on zebra but it looks like it would cost a small fortune to build a 51x32x12 box.

What do any of you think?

Couple things I found out while doing some research for mine:

Spanish cedar is not necessary for the whole interior...if any part. I decided to line mine with luan plywood that has a mahogany veneer (most luan has this). Spanish cedar is not spanish or cedar and is actually from the mahogany family, so honduran mahogany looks almost exactly the same. I also decided to make the drawers and selfs out of spanish cedar. Between that and cigar boxes the %rh regulation and aroma should be great. If you are set on spanish cedar you could veneer with spanish cedar, but this will run a little over $100 for 4x8 sheet of spanish cedar veneer, which most Woodcraft stores stock.

Another thing...make sure you use high quality exterior grade plywood. Plywood is good for dimensional stability, but the VOCs from the glue can be a problem. Make sure the plywood isn't made in Asia...they still use high VOC glues over there and the out-gassing will ruin your cigars. Ever get new chinese made furniture and your whole room smells like toxins for 6 months...you don't want to subject your sticks to that.

If you want exotic looks then get high quality birch plywood and veneer one side with spanish cedar or mahogany for the interior, and the other side the the exotic species. Veneers are cheaper than buying a whole sheet, you just need to do a little work. However, you have more control of grain layout and matching.
 
im a little lost, how would foil or plastic be inserted into the inside of the box if you glue the veneer to the mdf. BTW MDF was just some thing I was thinking about. I actually was think of hardwood first, like a pine core, or some thing.
 
im a little lost, how would foil or plastic be inserted into the inside of the box if you glue the veneer to the mdf. BTW MDF was just some thing I was thinking about. I actually was think of hardwood first, like a pine core, or some thing.

If you line the inside of the humidor with spanish cedar (1/4" or whatever) you don't attach them to anything. They just fit in there and hold themselves in with pressure. You can't attach them because they will expand with the humidity.

The foil or plastic would act as a vapor barrier to keep the substrate (whatever it is) from expanding and causing dimensional issues.
 
Here is a link to some very important info on how wood is cut and its rate of expansion in relation to the grain. Wood is a very complex material to use for building. It may look great on day one but it might be a whole different story 3 years from now. This info is also helpful for compatibility of species. I hope this helps.

http://www.tuktupaddles.com/lumber.htm
 
thanks, I have been getting some wordworking book from the library to study what woods are easy to work, cost, how they behave, etc. I had no idea there was so much involved with woodworking. I have seen different tools from the diy wood work shows. Thanks, I keep everyone posted with my latest info.
 
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